Five days in the Perigord Noir
Five days change the nature of the trip. Where three days force you to choose, five leave room for quieter villages, gardens, a proper river day and mornings with nothing planned. The itinerary still revolves around a single base in Sarlat, between the two valleys.
The days can be reordered freely depending on the weather and market day. As throughout this guide, no timings are given: they vary from season to season.
The itinerary, day by day
Day 1
Sarlat, car-free
Take the time to get to know the town before heading out. A loop of the historic centre, one indoor monument, then back into the lit lanes in the evening. It is the ideal arrival day: nothing forces an early start and everything is walkable.
SarlatThe old town
Cobbled lanes, honey-coloured stone façades, Renaissance mansions: the historic centre is best explored on foot, wandering through its hidden passageways.
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SarlatThe Cathedral & the Lantern of the Dead
Tucked down a side street, Saint-Sacerdos Cathedral and its striking cylindrical tower tell eight centuries of history.
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SarlatManoir de Gisson
This 15th-century manor house, furnished in period style, is open to visitors and offers one of the finest views over Sarlat's rooftops from its tower.
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SarlatAn evening stroll by candlelight
At night, the candlelit lighting reveals another side of the town: more intimate, more mysterious.
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The Dordogne castles
The centrepiece of the itinerary. Two fortresses facing each other above the river, lunch by the water, and a late afternoon in the hanging gardens, when the light rakes across the valley.
Beynac / CastelnaudBeynac and Castelnaud castles
Medieval fortresses that once faced off against each other during the Hundred Years' War, perched high above the valley.
View on Google MapsVézacGardens of Marqueyssac
Century-old boxwood trimmed along the clifftop and shaded paths, with one of the finest viewpoints over the valley.
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Castelnaud-la-ChapelleChâteau des Milandes
The former home of Josephine Baker, with its free-flying birds of prey shows in the Renaissance gardens.
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Prehistory in the Vezere valley
Book the main cave well ahead. A full morning at the site, then a valley village or a second cave in the afternoon. Underground visits stay cool even in midsummer: bring an extra layer.
MontignacLascaux IV
A full-scale replica of the world's most famous prehistoric cave, with paintings 17,000 years old.
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Saint-Léon-sur-VézèreSaint-Léon-sur-Vézère
A Romanesque hamlet on the riverbank, among the most beautiful villages in France, with its 12th-century church.
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RouffignacRouffignac Cave
The "cave of the hundred mammoths," explored aboard a small electric train leading to its prehistoric artwork.
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ThonacChâteau de Losse
A Renaissance manor set on a rocky spur above the Vézère river, surrounded by gardens listed as remarkable.
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Perched villages and river
A slower day, following the valley. One or two listed villages in the morning, then a canoe descent or a break by the water in the afternoon. It is often the day travellers remember most, precisely because it is the least programmed.
La Roque-GageacLa Roque-Gageac
One of the most beautiful villages in France, clinging to the cliffside on the banks of the Dordogne. Explore on foot or aboard a traditional gabare boat.
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DommeDomme, the clifftop village
Listed among the most beautiful villages in France, Domme offers one of the finest panoramas over the valley.
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Vallée de la DordogneCanoeing on the Dordogne
A canoe trip between cliffs, castles and villages, one of the most beautiful ways to discover the valley.
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Castelnaud-la-ChapelleCastelnaud-la-Chapelle
A village tucked beneath its fortress, with golden stone houses and views over the Dordogne valley.
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Bastides and western villages
Head west and south-west, noticeably less crowded. Medieval bastides on their regular grid, villages clinging to their hillsides, country markets: this is the more everyday Perigord, and often the most endearing. If you would rather stay close to Sarlat, swap this day for a second garden and a quieter castle.
MonpazierMonpazier
One of the finest medieval bastide towns in France, with its arcaded square unchanged since 1284.
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BelvèsBelvès
A medieval village perched on its promontory, with 14th-century covered market halls and troglodyte dwellings.
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LimeuilLimeuil
A flower-decked village perched at the confluence of the Dordogne and Vézère rivers, with panoramic gardens.
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Salignac-EyviguesEyrignac Manor Gardens
Formal French gardens and topiary trimmed with precision since the 18th century, among the finest in France.
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BironChâteau de Biron
A monumental fortress blending eight centuries of architectural styles, from medieval to Renaissance.
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Organising the week
Alternate the pace
Never place two monument-heavy days back to back. A dense day followed by a river or village day holds up far better over time.
Time the town day
If a Saturday falls during your stay, give it to Sarlat so you can enjoy the big market.
Book what needs booking
Painted caves strictly cap visitor numbers. Everything else can be decided day by day, according to the weather.
Frequently asked questions
Should you change accommodation over five days?
There is no need. The Perigord Noir is compact and Sarlat sits at the centre of it: every day in this itinerary starts and ends in the same place.
Is five days too long for the region?
No. The challenge in the Perigord Noir is not filling the days but choosing between them: with castles, villages, caves, gardens and the river, a full week remains comfortable.
Read next
- Three days in the Perigord Noir from SarlatA three-day Perigord Noir itinerary from Sarlat: the old town, the Dordogne valley and its castles, then prehistory in the Vezere valley.
- Visiting the Perigord NoirThe Dordogne valley, the Vezere valley, listed villages, castles and painted caves: how to explore the Perigord Noir and where to set up your base.
- The most beautiful villages around SarlatBeynac, Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Castelnaud, Monpazier: the listed villages to visit around Sarlat, how they differ and how to link them up.
- Where to stay to visit the Perigord NoirChoosing where to stay to explore the Perigord Noir: why Sarlat is the most central base, and our two town-centre studios with free parking.
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