Visiting the Perigord Noir

Sarlat-la-Caneda is the main town of the Perigord Noir, and its historic centre is a destination in itself. It is also the most practical place from which to organise a stay: the two major valleys, the Dordogne to the south and the Vezere to the north-west, are both reachable without crossing the whole region.

Another, less obvious advantage: it is one of the few places in the area where you can spend a whole evening without getting back in the car. Restaurants, seasonal night markets and a stroll through the lit lanes are all within walking distance.

This is the landscape most associated with the region: a wide, calm river, limestone cliffs, and on the heights a string of villages and fortresses watching one another from opposite banks. Beynac and Castelnaud in particular face each other — a direct legacy of the Hundred Years' War, when the frontier ran through here.

The valley lends itself equally to cultural visits and quieter days: a canoe descent, hanging gardens, or simply a stop at a viewpoint. It is the busiest part of the Perigord Noir in summer.

North-west of Sarlat, the Vezere runs through a landscape of rock shelters and cliffs riddled with caves. Some of the world's most important bodies of parietal art were uncovered here, including Lascaux, now presented to the public through a full replica designed to preserve the original cave.

The valley includes several UNESCO World Heritage sites. Visits to painted caves take place in limited groups: booking ahead is strongly advised, particularly in summer.

Three days let you see Sarlat, the Dordogne valley and one major prehistoric site. Five days give you room to add the western villages, a garden or two and slower days by the river. Beyond a week, you get into the detail: village markets, footpaths, quieter sites.